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Tokyo Garden
4337 University Way NE, University District, Seattle, WA
April 25, 2009

1/2 / ****

by Scott Muoio

Turn off the microwave

Only twice during my exhaustive teriyaki research have I been unable to stomach the subject in question. Unfortunately, my experience with Tokyo Garden was one of those times.

Part convenience store, part sneaky Asian restaurant Tokyo Garden is a fascinating mix between the "who the hell goes here?" and "maybe this place is a hidden gem" aestetic. The way it works is you walk in, go to the convenience store counter, place your order, get an oversized number printed on a plastic card, and a few minutes later your food arrives. There are several tables in two distinct portions of the store to sit at, and lots of odd "who buys this junk?" snack foods and nik-naks lining the walls but nothing that really invites you to stay a while. But don't get me wrong: If that sounds like your type of thing then by all means dine-in. If not, better for you as you'll be treated to the next little oddity in the Tokyo Garden experience: the teriyaki packaging.

Black styrofoam. In all my years I don't think I have ever seen packaging quite like it. At first seemingly elegant, then hypnotically creepy, finally a little distracting maybe there is a reason styrofoam rarely comes in black. Does it make portions seem slimmer? Does it add a touch of class to teriyaki? Have I lost my mind trying to add meaning to black styrofoam? Most certainly.

Packaging aside, Tokyo Garden's teriyaki is a failure. The portions are OK but when the quality stinks to the point where you throw out more than half the meal something is painfully wrong. And this teriyaki is all wrong.

The meal's worst aspect, the chicken is over grilled and rubbery, a sure sign that someone slipped it into the microwave before sending it out. The cole slaw salad is nearly as bad, dry and void of any flavor except for a few overpowering onions. The chunky dressing that accompanies it adds nothing but wetness to its taste. The rice is a bit on the skimpy side and also quite soggy. Finally, the teriyaki sauce is crappy as well with a tang but no taste and no matter how much you dump on this monstrosity you'll still be gravely dissapointed.

Overall this teriyaki is unquestionably one of the worst I have ever eaten.

 

Elegant, black packaging... bizarre!
A huge menu from a convenience store... bizarre!

 

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Interested in sponsoring Muoio on his quest for the teriyaki holy grail? Put your money where your mouth is and buy him a plate: scottmuoio@undependentmedia.com

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