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Seattle's Best Teriyaki
2445 4th Avenue S, SODO, Seattle, WA
June 26, 2009

** 1/2 / ****

by Scott Muoio

Ultimate Efficiency

If anyone in Seattle is prepared to test Seattle’s Best Teriyaki’s claim as the city’s best, it is I. From the top of Queen Anne Hill to the bustle of Pike Place Market, the oddness of Fremont to the hit or miss U-District, and everywhere else north, south, east, and west, if a Seattle restaurant serves teriyaki chicken yours truly has ordered their #1 (or soon will). So when it comes to delivering “the truth” on the SODO neighborhood’s Seattle’s Best, yours truly is undoubtedly the man for the job.

The first thing a person notices when entering Seattle’s Best is that the restaurant is a consummate run-through lunch factory. The lady at the counter is efficient, aggressive, and demands a fast order and then a quick exit from the counter. The clientele matches her demeanor and is a mix of working professionals all hungry for an inexpensive, tasty, no frills lunch. That scenario equates to little in the way of ambience, but when it comes to teriyaki that’s hardly a deal breaker.

The second thing a person instantly notices at Seattle’s Best is that their menu is enormous. However, rather than present it all in one place, the restaurant is split into two separate sections: one sells teriyaki and Chinese favorites while the other churns out delicious looking pho soups and bubble teas. They share a kitchen and probably some attitude but otherwise it is Segregation Street all the way.

While both these dining aspects certainly mean something, it is the teriyaki alone that truly means everything to me (at least in these rankings).

As for the teriyaki…

The highlight of a Seattle’s Best teriyaki meal is definitely the sauce. Thick, tangy, and lip-smacking good Seattle’s Best just might have the best sauce in town. In fact, I’d love to know just how they do it. Unfortunately, however, the top-notch sauce isn’t quite enough to carry the meal’s lacking portions. Teriyaki connoisseur Russ Rikli’s experience best summarizes that particular liability.

After finishing his lunch, Russ was so hungry he immediately ran next door looking for further sustenance. Not good.

Sure, Russ is a big guy but big guys deserve to get their fill, too, dammit! And lacking portions are indeed an unfortunate red flag that a true teriyaki critic cannot ignore.

But back to the positives….

The meal’s low $5.50 plus tax price tag is indeed a boon, so much so that it may pull the wool over some people’s eyes. And certainly the above average chicken is a nice surprise.

Unfortunately, however between the soggy rice and mediocre honey mustard iceberg salad I can’t quite recommend Seattle’s Best. I would certainly go back, especially to try something on the pho side, but when it comes to teriyaki seattle's best this ain’t.

 

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Interested in sponsoring Muoio on his quest for the teriyaki holy grail? Put your money where your mouth is and buy him a plate: scottmuoio@undependentmedia.com

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