Across the street from the sneakiest park in all of Seattle is Mom's Teriyaki. But don't let the riff-raff milling about outside fool you: Mom's is worth braving the seediness for a good, inexpensive teriyaki meal.

For $5.39 plus tax (the second most inexpensive teriyaki in town, Osaka being the first), Mom's treats you to the leanest chicken around. That fact, however, is a double edged sword.

The chicken is white meat goodness with nary a thought of fat anywhere. Unfortunately, the portion is likewise lean and will undoubtedly leave you thinking about ordering a side of gyoza as well. Though my pals left a little behind on their own plates, I had plenty of room for more.

Adding a little extra teriyaki sauce to the dish is a bit of a strange experience. The sauce that comes on the chicken is slightly sweeter than that which is in the jars at the table. Adding an extra drizzle is fine, but the mis-match is still oddly notable.

Accompanying the lean chicken are two scoops of fluffy rice and a ranch dressing salad. Typical and appropriately proportioned, the sides are just enough to cover the chicken and tie the meal together.

Between the yummy sweet teriyaki glaze and typically reliable accompaniements, all questions about portion size and odd matches are a moot point: Mom's is good stuff, indeed. You won't be blown away but you will be happily satiated with room left over for dessert.