For my second foray into University
District teriyaki, I decided to go off the beaten path.
From an anonymous tip came word that Kyoto Teriyaki
was not only the best of the U-District, but also the
best in Seattle. So I gave it a shot. The verdict: it
is not.
The good in Kyoto's #1 chicken
teriyaki is the price (less than $6 including tax) and
portion. Ample amounts of chicken and rice are complimented
by a separate container of iceberg lettuce (with a side
of tasty honey ranch dressing) that literally exploded
all over the table when I popped it open. That's
what big portions are all about! Unfortunately, the cooking
quality doesn't quite measure up to the generosity.
With plenty of white meat chicken,
a thin though tasty sauce, and definitively unsoggy rice
Kyoto was poised for a major teriyaki breakthrough.
The monkey wrench, however is the overcooking that dominates
the dish.
An overgrilled, charred flavor obscures
the chicken's teriyaki taste. The rice, likewise is overcooked
with the individual grains having a hard mouth feel. Though
these techniques of grilling the chicken and cooking all
the water out of the rice, respectively are exactly what
I like in my teriyaki, that little lack of care, overexuberance,
or simple ignorance of when to take the food off the cooker
is the meal's achilles heal.
Still, I was pleased with Kyoto's
teriyaki. The bang-for-the-buck is there as is proper
cooking technique. Maybe I caught them on a bad day. If
that's the case, Kyoto is an unquestionable 3
out of 4 and possibly a little higher. As is, 3 out of
4 still fits.
Kyoto isn't great teriyaki,
but I recommend it as another good shop to get your hands
on Seattle's #1 fast food item.
|